DIY Add Virbation To Your Xbox One Racing Simulator

DIY Add Virbation To Your Xbox One Racing Simulator

This is a long over due post about how to add vibration to your Xbox racing chair. When I first set this up, I couldn’t find any resources online about how to do this…and thus the idea for Xboxracingpro.com was born!

This post will cover how I added vibration to my Xbox racing seat (Playseat Evolution). The goal is that when you hit the rumble strips playing Forza or any driving game, your chair simulates the feeling of being in a real car.

To accomplish this we will be adding transducers and sub amplifiers onto your Xbox driving cockpit. A Transducer is simply a bass shaker, it’s kind of like a speaker, that only vibrates when there is low frequency and it barely produces any sound – just shake!

The key to making a transducer work effectively is hooking it up to a sub amplifier. The reason you need a sub amp is because you need the ability to filter out high frequencies and only push low frequencies to the transducers. this is for creating maximum low end vibration.

This is not a perfect system (ill explain more on that later), but it is VERY effective and FUN. I can honestly say this takes driving games on the Xbox One to the next level. As proof, my Playstation friends are at my house every Saturday to race in this customized Xbox racing simulator!

Here Is what this post will cover:

  • Adding transducers (bass shakers) to the bottom of your Xbox racing chair
  • A birds eye view of how to wire the setup
  • The pros and cons of this set up
  • All of the products I used to set this up
  • Other Alternatives

This is the part were we turn your Xbox Racing Chair into An Xbox Racing Simulator…

Lets Make Your Gaming Chair Vibrate!

Here Are More Details and Pictures

playseat6

SeparateΒ The Frame and Remove The Seat

  1. Detach your front end of your cockpit so that you are only dealing with the racing seat
  2. Unscrew the four screws that attach your racing seat to the metal frame

This is all straight forward stuff, but here comes the hard part, now we have to drill the frame. **Once you drill your frame, you void your warrenty**


Xbox Racing Simulator DIYDrill Equidistant HolesΒ And Mount A Board

  1. Measure 5 equidistant holes on each side of the top of the seat frame (mine are 2inches apart)
  2. Drill holes into the frame on each side
  3. Mount a .75 inch thick piece of oak (dimensions 17 in l x 10 in w) with screws

For this I used a drill press. Also be careful measuring try to line everything up nice on both sides of the frame. Check your seat and make sure the screw holes line up correctly.


playseat-2Flip the Frame And Add Washers

  1. Flip the frame over
  2. Add washers onto each screw

Adding washers is important, because the when the seat shakes, it can loosen the screws. So don’t skip on adding the washers.

You will want to add one washer to each of the 10 screws on the bottom side of the oak board and fastenΒ them on very TIGHT!


Xbox Racing SimulatorAttach Your Transducers

  1. If you are running stereo measure out and center the transducers
  2. Screw them into the oak board with the connectors facing anyway you want ( I choose toward the front of the seat)

I personally found it easier to attach my speaker wire now, while I had the chair flipped over and the transducers exposed.


playseat5Add Padding To The Top Of the Board & Reattach Seat

  1. Flip the frame back over
  2. Add a piece of carpet pad to add some cushion under your but – anything soft will do
  3. Reattach your racing seat to the frame
  4. Reattach the front end of your cockpit with your wheel

A few words of advice when adding transducers to any type of setup. Always think about transfer of energy. You want these transducers to shake your whole setup and transfer as much wattage as they can into your Xbox driving simulator.

We are now ready to start hooking up all the wiring to make the vibration work.

Xbox Racing Simulator Birds Eye View

Xbox Racing Seat Customozation

Here is a text recap of what I have covered in the picture above:

  1. Xbox Digital Out to Digital to Analog Converter (DAC) – need to use a Toslink cable
  2. DAC Splits out Left and Right Analog Into Sub Amps – use 2 Y Spilt RCA cables
  3. Sub goes into Transducers attached to the bottom of your Xbox Racing Chair
  4. Optional: Add a volume control knob between your DAC and amps/li>

Pros and Cons of ThisΒ Custom Racing Setup

Pro’s of this setup:

  • This adds an entire new level of immersion to any racing game
  • When you add vibration and wear headphones, your immersion gets modified x100
  • 2 transducers allows you to feel vibration in stereo
  • Took me about 3-4 hours in total to customize this whole setup
  • Everything feels more real and activates all of your senses
  • Add a high end set of headphones to work in tandem with the vibration…it is all taken to the next level
  • Even with board underneath seat it remains comfortable for hours
  • If you jack up the gain enough on the amps, the whole frame will get adequate vibration
  • If you get creative you can mount your amps onto your seat

Cons of this setup

  • Using the Xbox OUT you are getting all game audio (this is why you need a sub amp…you need to filter out the highs). Example, in Forza 6 I can feel the low end of the helicopter passing over my head in certain parts of tracks it vibrates the seat – again not perfect put still AWESOME!
  • If you don’t measure the board 100% right, it can be difficult to mount your seat back to the frame. I estimated 17 in long, but measure yourself and make sure it fits within your frame
  • My down stairs neighbor thinks I am a D bag, because the floor vibrates. (to fix that I used high grade Isolate It pads under my playseat frame…no more downstairs complaints)

Other Notes:

  • I set the frequency on my sub amps between 60-80 hz
  • I set my gain to 6 and it provides a nice simulation experience
  • After 1.5 hours of solid driving the amps feel warm and I cut em off in between races
  • You can wire a volume control knob and mount it on your seat
  • I cut my 4 Isolate It pads into 8 and double stack them under the metal frame of the seat
  • If you wanna go mono, add your transducer to the middle of the board

DIY Xbox Racing Simulator Setup At Amazon

Here is a list of all the products I used in the set up above. I have them listed here from left to right in the order they appear in my setup.

FYI…the 70 watt sub amp, transducers (bass hsakers), and Y split RCA cables are X 2. You can swap these out for different products and wattages, but this is what I found to work best.

Other Alternatives For adding Vibration

There are other products for adding vibration, like the Butt kicker 2.Tthe only issues with that is they NEVER seem to be in stock anywhere and they are mono.

A good high end transducer company Clark has nice products if you have the budget and on the lower end you can get Dayton Audio Pucks for pretty cheap. Whatever you get just make sure you do some research on the proper wiring and appropriate wattages for driving power to the transducers. You don’t want to under power them and not get what you paid for, but over powering them can blow them.

If you have any questions at all about this DIY mod or want to share your own, please let me know. I hope that you found this helpful, since there are not many DIY guides online about doing this.

39 Comments

  • Matt says:

    Hey mate,cheers for the write up, going to give this a go for my racing sim chair πŸ™‚

    This is obvious i’m guessing but i just wanted to double check, you are still getting full game audio through your hdmi while the optical audio out is plugged into your xbox one yeah? I just know so many products that if you plug an input in it cuts the others out.

    Cheers again πŸ™‚

    • James says:

      Hey Matt,

      That is correct. My regular sound through the HDMI goes out through my TV speakers (or you could do surround sound). My digital audio out feeds the vibration. So essentially the HDMI and the digital audio out work simultaneously producing the same exact audio output signal. One does not cut the other off.

      If you have any more questions or want to share some of your specifics please feel free to reply back.

      Regards,
      James

      • Matt says:

        Awesome! cheers James πŸ™‚ i thought that was the case, just wanted to double check before I went ahead.

        I’ve gone a bit overboard with my sim, I adapted my old car interior to it, it’s turned out pretty well, still searching for missing parts of the trim but it’s definitely unique πŸ™‚

        • James says:

          Matt,

          Your racing setup sounds awesome, I love the creativity. Let me know how it works out with changing the settings in Forza for your G920.

          -James

  • Rob says:

    Hey mate I was just looking for a solution to get som vibes out of my Xbox while playing Forza 6 when I noticed your website – what a great solution!

    I’m not technical at all, but I have two of these Sinuslive Auto-subwoofers;
    https://www.conrad.nl/nl/sinuslive-auto-subwoofer-passief-130-mm-80-w-bass-pump-iii-4-376287.html?sc.ref=Product%20Details

    and this converter:
    https://www.conrad.nl/nl/dynavox-dk-201-das-converter-grijs-1209821.html?WT.mc_id=gshop&insert=8J&gclid=Cj0KEQjwjK–BRCzv-Wyu4OTosEBEiQAgFp5ODUSbdPUpYBNu1dJcQ8PqYMiIWLXVG8E_4NMIQaRBtsaAlwm8P8HAQ&tid=211354628_37258601348_pla-245567002628_pla-1209821&WT.srch=1

    but can you tell me if this kind of amp will do the job?:

    https://www.conrad.nl/nl/basetech-ap-2100-versterker-2-kanaals-100-w-372204.html

    Much appreciated if you could help me out because the things you are using are not available in the Netherlands πŸ™‚

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      Adding vibration makes such an immersive difference to your racing experience, Im glad to hear you are exploring your options.

      I went to the website, but I can’t read the descriptions because it’s not in English. However just looking at the pictures of the products I can take a fairly good guess. The Sinuslive Auto-subwoofers look like transducers based on their design and I noticed the word “body shake” in English in the description. 50 watts a piece is definitely enough power, but you just need to make sure they are transducers and not actual speakers. The difference is a speaker produces sound and a transducer produces vibration. They look like transducers, but I can’t be 100% sure cause its not in English

      The digital audio converter (DAC) should work perfect and you would also need a toslink cable to go betwwen the DAC and your Xbox One.

      The amp MAY work, but I don’t believe it will deliver the desired effect you want and be powerful enough to drive vibration through a racing seat. You need 2 sub-woofer amps (one for each transducer) with at least 50 watts. You could use one amp, but then you have to wire the transducers in a series which reduces their power. What makes a sub-woofer amp different than the amp you linked to is that a sub-woofer amp has a cross over on it that allows you to filter out high end frequencies and isolate the bass frequencies. The amp you have does not have a cross over.

      Here is a another solution idea. Since the amp is only $19, you could try it and then wire an equalizer between the amp and the transducers. You would want to set the equalizer to boost the bass settings and filter out the high and mid range frequencies. Let me know your thoughts…I’d be happy to go further in depth or look at more products you are considering.

      -James

  • rob says:

    I left some comments, but strangely the site did not refresh…

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      I have comments set up so that I have to approve them before they post (its how I avoid spam). I will be looking at the product links you sent later today and then posting and responding to your comments. Sorry for the delay in my response.

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Thanks James,

    Before you start looking at my product-links, I have found some other products that are – maybe – the solution and as far as I can see the same as what you advising to use;

    The amp:
    https://www.bol.com/nl/p/skytronic-103-200-audio-versterker/9200000009231777/?bltg=itm_event=click&mmt_id=cc0af6821014da61&pg_nm=pdp&slt_id=prd_reco&slt_nm=product_recommendations&slt_pos=C1&slt_owner=ccs&itm_type=product&itm_lp=1&itm_id=9200000009231777&itm_role=in#product_specifications

    From what I can see from the back of the amp is that I only need 1 amp to get 2 transducers to work?

    The converter:
    https://www.bol.com/nl/p/bigben-rca-gaming-headsets-audio-converter-voor-ps4-xbox-one/9200000023054172/?country=BE

    The Y – cables:
    https://www.bol.com/nl/p/valueline-vlap24000b20-audio-kabel/9200000046796195/?country=BE

    I hope that you agree and I can start ordering soon πŸ™‚

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      I looked at all of the links from each of the comments.

      First lets handle what I think will work. the Digital Audio Converter (DAC) will be good. You have sent me two different ones and either one I think should work. The Y cables you linked to have should work with this setup also. The toslink cable you sent will also work.

      The EQ you sent is something like what I had had in mind and MIGHT work to filter out the highs and isolate the bottom. If I was hooking this up, I would wire the EQ in between the DAC and the AMP(s). Then boosting the two faders on the left of the EQ (63 freq and 125 freq) and lowering all of the ones to the right. In theory that will boost you your bass going into the amp and then your amp would raise the volume into the transducers. Using the EQ is not exactly the same as using an amp with a crossover, so I can’t say for sure how good this will isolate the bass frequencies.

      The Karaoke amp link you sent me is a regular amp with an EQ built in. This would mean you didnt have to buy the EQ I mentioned above. However this is not the same as buying an amp with a crossover.

      The last thing I want you to do is spend money and not get the results. My question for you…what is the return policy on this stuff? Can you order it, hook it up and return it if its not what you want?

      If so here is what I would do. Get the toslink cable, the DAC, a normal RCA cable (2 channel left/right), the karaoke amp, some speaker cable, and a transducer. Hook it all up to your console and put on a game. Turn down the treble on the amp and boost the bass and see if the transducer shakes enough that it will vibrate what ever you are gonna mount it to. When you test this you will want to start when the volume on zero on the amp and gradually raise it. The last thing you want to do is damage the transducer if you need to return it.

      I tried doing some searching on my own on the websites you sent me to, but I cant seem to find a sub woofer amp or an amp with a crossover built in. Now granted the site is not in English, but I didnt see any pictures of what I was looking for. You can try using a regular amp, I just cant be certain it will work correctly, because I have never tried it.

      Keep me posted.

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Hi James,

    Thank you kindly for the support! I just ordered everything from your list
    and hopefully I have everything coming tomorrow. I certainly wil do what you
    advised; I’m going to test the setup before I take it to my rig πŸ™‚

    I keep you posted πŸ™‚

    Rob

  • Rob says:

    Hi James,

    After some trial and error I finally got everything working **

    I’ve now got a very heavy powerfull stereo ‘shake’ directly under my seat (RSeat RS1):
    The vibs effect adds an wonderful new level of immersion to racing with my Xbox One!

    For now I just tried Forza 6, but later today I’m going to test Dirt Rally and looking forward
    driving Forza Horizon 3, releasing by the end go september.

    **The only problem I encountered during the setup, testing if the amp would fire up the transducers,
    was that I had purchased the wrong Toslink cable: On your video you showed a image of a
    S/PDIF/3.5 optic male Toslink cable, but I found out that I needed a S/PDIF to S/PDIF Toslink
    cable instead. When I connected that specific cable the vibs hit in very aggressive πŸ™‚

    BTW: do you think when placing a extra EQ would help to tune the different tones?
    If so: where/how would you place the EQ when looking at my set up?

    So far; Thank you again for helping me out and making my sim-race hobby even better!

    Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      So glad to hear it is working. The shake + headphones = TOTAL IMMERSION. I am soooo happy that you have this setup and are loving it. Sorry for the confusion in the Toslink cable btw.

      For the EQ, it might not hurt to try. You can insert it after the digital audio converter and run RCA’s into it and then run the EQ into your amp. This will help filter out more of the low end frequencies, before it even gets to your amp. I think placing the EQ before your amps would give you the advantage of being able to boost the gain on your amp after the EQ. Adding this like EQ’s add an additional resistance to audio signals which can result in a lower volume/lower quality output.

      If you give it a try, let me know how it works out. As always if you do try it, experiment slowly at low volumes and gradually raise the gain on the amp. Transducers are no different than speakers and can be blown if they are overpowered.

      I am so happy you have the vibration hooked up!!! I think it makes such a difference in racing and adds much more fun! I even sit in my racing seat when I play FPS games, its awesome when the seat vibrates every time you blast a shot gun.

      -James

  • rob says:

    Hi James,

    I just found 1 problem that I was not aware of, because I was using headphones while driving; My wife just told me that the sound of the game (Forza 6) is coming out of the transducers… Anything I can do about that?

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      There will be a bit of volume leak out the transducers particularly because you are not using a sub-woofer amp. Even mine which do run a sub-woofer amp have a bit of audio blead, but I would suspect you will have more because you can’t filter out the high end frequencies as efficiently.

      -James

  • rob says:

    Hi James,

    The volume leak is not just a bit: you can literally hear the co-pilot in Dirt Rally talking – and not to mention the motor/road sounds – through the bass shakers πŸ™‚ But I do understand that this is caused by the lack of a subwoofer in my amp?! The volume leak is a bit annoying, because I have to turn the volume down not to disturb the peace in my living room, and you understand; lowering the volume is also lowering the shake effects… So I think I’m better of with a amp that has got a subwoofer;

    I just did some new research and found this amp, would this one be better?

    https://www.conrad.nl/nl/sub-50c-inbouw-versterkermodule-actief-301043.html?sc.ref=Search%20Results

    Tried Dirt Rally last weekend – and man-oh-man – the EXTRA great effects and fun this sim is giving with the help of some bass shakers; the total immersion is incredible – racing without bass shakers is a big NO-NO from now on πŸ™‚

    Thanks, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      Now that looks like a sub woofer amp!!! That should do the trick and get rid of most of the sound from coming out of the transducers. There will still be some audio leakage, but it will be lower bass levels and none of the high and mid range frequencies.

      and yeah man, im the same way…once I started racing with vibration on, it doesnt even feel right racing without it!!

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Hi James,

    Thanks, looks like I finally found the amp I need! The only thing is; I’m sorry to say I can’t return the amp I purchased earlier because I just noticed that the ‘small print’ tells me that only ‘unopened’ packages will be accepted; in other words you can buy but can’t test the product…

    So I have to wait until I have the money to buy the amp as I send you in my last post…

    BTW: I noticed, while playing Forza Horizon 2, that the vibs in that game are much less powerful in compare, with for instance, Forza Motorsport 6 or Dirt Rally. Can you perhaps tell me what other race titles you have tested and work best with the vibration support?

    Thanks, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      So for FH2 and the FH3 demo thats out now, I cut the music down and sometimes even off so that I can a good feel of the car through the transducers. Not all racing games have good low end sounds that produce strong vibration. Here are the two best in my opinion: Project Cars and Assetto Corsa. Project Cars you should be able to pick up pretty cheap and I think the GOY edition might be on sale via Games with Gold possibly even starting tomorrow (I cant remember, I know its soon). Assetto Corsa came out last month, so that game will be full price.

      Both games produce significantly more shake than Forza Motorsport 6.

      Regards,
      James

  • rob says:

    Hi James,

    Thanks for the game(s) information! I also want to tell you that I have discovered that The Crew is a great race game with the transducers! I always had a kind of love/hate feel with this driving game, but after I had tried it with the vibration system, the immersion is unbelievable! The Crew feels so much faster now!

    Another question: is it possible to hook another 2 transducers (so you get 4) to this setup? It would be great to have also vibrations on the front of my rig. I’ve heard about wiring speakers parallel; is this possible? If so: ho would you do this?

    Hope you can help out – thanks!

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      I have the Crew, but I didn’t really vibe to much with that game in terms of playing it for a long time. I am a much bigger fan of sim racing titles. I may have to go back and check it out with the vibration turned up…maybe that will reel me in.

      As far as transducers go it is possible to hook up 4 and wire them in parallel. Doing this correctly depends largely on the wattage of your amp and the OHMS of your transducers. What are you running currently…how much of an OHM load does your amp handle? How many transducers are wired per amplifier and how many OHMs are the transducers? Once you start getting into these types of wiring it is helpful to educate yourself so that you do it correctly and do not damage your equipment. Try this article here: http://www.bustedgear.com/faq_Speaker_wiring.htm and see if this info can help you decide if this is the kind of setup you want to wire.

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Hi James,

    I have it up and running: 4 transducers! And it feels absolutely great! I did not placed, as said earlier, the other two transducers on the front of the rig, but instead of that I placed them both on the back side of my race seat. The effects are incredible now!

    BTW: The link from your article showed me graphics of different wiring techniques, and one of them I remembered from when I was in high school back in the ’70s πŸ™‚ So after that it was easy: I started working yesterday afternoon on it all and finished the whole setup before dinner!

    I tried the new setup with The Crew first and the difference was very noticeable: the vibs are so strong now that you can much more feel the differences in al kind of road surfaces and the motor sound enlarge the feel of going faster! So yes: very happy!

    About The Crew: I’m also a big fan of sim race titles; Being a formal PC user, I played a lot of iRacing, rFactor 2, GameStockCar and R3E. But nextI got tired of always having to deal with PC stuff I wanted a more easy way of race gaming so I choose the Xbox One: Plug and play πŸ™‚

    Thanks again for your help: happy racing!

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      That sounds like an awesome setup. I have a few Dayton Audio Pucks I am debating about attaching to my pedals, but I just havent gotten around to wiring them and thinking through how to do it. I have debated alot about doing some iracing on the PC, but its just so expensive to maintain your computer to keep up with technology. Xbox and Playstation racing is so convenient like you said “Plug in and Play” its hard to let go over when it’s so easy to setup and get racing!

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Hi James,

    I can really recommend you attaching 2 extra Dayton Audio Pucks on your rig; you will not be disappointed! πŸ™‚ Last weekend I put all the Xbox One race games I own till now (Forza Motorsport 6, Dirt Rally, The Crew, Forza Horizon 2) to the test and I can say; every race title absolutely comes to life! The extra vibe effects are worth the money!

    About racing on the PC: You are right about the costs! I sold my complete PC sim race rig early this year, including my full Fanatec Clubsport V2 setup, to start al over again. I got tired of spending money on keeping the PC and Fanatec gear in top shape for the last 5, 6 years. For instance: I now have everything from Trustmaster (TX wheel set up, shifter, Pro pedals) and that alone cost me just a third of the price I paid for my Clubsport V2 Fanatec gear… And do I really feel any difference? Not really – is my honest answer. There were times that I was spending hours just to get a set up right on the PC before I could start to race. Now, for the last 3 months I own an Xbox One I can do what I enjoy the most: driving without al the hassle πŸ™‚ Feels more at ease now…

    BTW: I think I can buy the new amp next month, so I hope I can reduce the volume leak a.s.a.p.

    I will let you know when I have replaced the amp and if it worked!

    Cheers, Rob

  • rob says:

    Hi James,

    I just ordered the new amp; I think it will be delivered next tuesday.

    So I want to ask you do I have to do anything special after I hooked the amp to the Xbox One?
    I mean, when I look at the image of the amp I see some rotary/switch buttons where it says:

    1) Rotary button: ‘Cross-over 40 – 160 Hz’ What does this do and what do I need: 40 or 160 HZ ?
    2) Switch button: ‘0 PHASE 180 degrees’ What does this do and what do I need: 0 or 180 ?

    3) Rotary button: ‘Level’ – I can fairly presume that this is volume (just to be sure πŸ™‚ ) ?

    Just to be clear, here is -again- the link to the amp:

    https://www.conrad.nl/nl/sub-50c-inbouw-versterkermodule-actief-301043.html

    Hope you can help me out with these questions!

    Thanks again – cheers,

    Rob

    • James says:

      Whaddup Rob,

      Looking forward to hearing about this new amp and if it gives you the desired results.

      The rotary knob is your cross over, this is what you will use to filter out high end sounds. The further you turn it to the right towards 40 hertz the less sound will come through your bass shaker. It also means that only the deepest low frequencies will make the transducers shake. The further you turn it to the right 160 Hertz the less it will filter out high end frequencies. On my amp I have it set to about 90 hertz which is just about 1 tick to the right of center, but sometimes I adjust it based on the game I am playing. For example F1 2016 doesnt give a lot of shake so I move up to about 100 hertz to let more sound in.

      The level knob is your gain (volume) This will determine how intense the transducers will react to how many hertz your cross over is letting in.

      The Phase switch you may need to play with. I dont have a phase switch. I normally think of phase as what happens when you cross your speaker wires and connect the positive wire to the negative terminal. The result is something called a flange effect thats very hard to describe. You may need to try it out with some various settings and let me know what it does because I am curious myself.

      Let me know if you have any questions about my answers…hopefully that was helpful.

      Regards,
      James

      • rob says:

        James, mate – thank you very, very much for explaining everything;
        make the different knobs and switches much more clear to me!

        Of course I will let you know how everything works out as soon as I have tried everything!

        Cheers, Rob

  • rob says:

    Hi James,

    I have everything up and running know and the two new amps are working great!
    No more sound leak, just clean and heavy shaking coming from my 4 transducers πŸ™‚

    About the so-called Phase switch: It doesn’t do anything at all so I’m still in the dark
    about that feature!

    I noticed that the front of the amps can become pretty warm after driving a race title
    after a couple of minutes; is that normal?

    I’m thinking about buying Sebastien Loeb rally (it is very cheap lately, about €15,00),
    Can you tell me if this game is doing any good with the bass shaker set up?

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      I was wonderin’ how things were going πŸ™‚ I am super happy that the sub-woofer amps gave you the desired effect!

      It is totally normal for sub-woofer amps to get warm. What I did to combat that a little is I added a volume switch between my Digital Audio Converter and my amps. I mounted the volume knob under my shifter. So this way when a race ends I cut the volume off to the amps and when I start a race, I raise the volume back up. This is my way of keeping my amps cool so that they are constantly working while I am in game settings menus and there is music playing. I use a cheap volume knob like this one, maybe you can find one like that in your country.

      I dont love SL Rally Evo, its just ok with the vibration and in all fairness I dont play alot of rally games religiously. For €15,00 its hard to go wrong, but after playing Dirt Rally and seeing what WRC 6 looks like, SL Rally Evo isnt that great of a game and I didnt think it performed very well with the wheel. Dirt Rally is on a discount for $30 USD (Not sure what that translates to for you) in the games with gold discounts and that is a much better game. Also how much is WRC 5 in your country?…I dont love that game either, but like it better than Sl Rally Evo.

      -James

  • rob says:

    Hi James, and thanks you for letting me know that SL Rally Evo isn’t that great to drive; I already had, kinda, mixed feeling about this title so you saved me from buying πŸ™‚

    I already have Dirt Rally for the Xbox One (I also had it on PC) and yes its one of my fav rally games/sims out there; comes very close to RBR !

    You talked about WRC 6; is it any good as far as you can tell (on wheel/vibration)?

    Also thank you kindly for the tip about volume knob; I will dive into that one – but I’m happy to hear that the amps get warm, so it is not a problem at my side πŸ™‚

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      So far WRC 6 looks like the real deal to me. I havent tried it, but I saw a PC version being played with a Thrustmaster T300 and it looked pretty good. I am generally skeptical about the quality of games until after they release…I never pre-order I wait until either I try the game myself or some actual user reviews (not critic reviews) are in. I like the look of WRC 6, but really who knows what we will actually get on the console.

      -James

  • Rob says:

    Hey James, as a kind of update I want to let you know that I have extended my set up from 4 to 6 bass shakers; I put an extra 2 shakers on the front of my rig to get much more the feel of 4 wheels on the road and it works absolutely great!

    I also want you to know that I have WRC 6 and I don’t like it at all; compare to Dirt Rally, WRC 6 is too much arcade to me. Also WRC 6 is NOT that good with the bass shaker setup as well; the feeling is not there.

    For now I say the best games giving good bass shaker support are:
    – Dirt Rally
    – Project Cars
    – The Crew

    Worst games giving non to less bass shaker support are:
    – Forza Horizon 2
    – Forza Horizon 3
    – Forza Motorsport 6
    – WRC 6

    Cheers, Rob

    • James says:

      Hey Rob,

      Thanks for checking in. Your setup sounds AWESOME. Dirt Rally and Project Cars are certainly awesome for bass shakers. I find Forza 6 to be pretty good, but the Horizon games are weak. When I tested WRC 6 I didn’t try it with the vibration on….so Ill have to give that a go just to see. WRC 6 is fine for what it is, it is better than WRC 5, but the game is much more geared towards a casual rally game fan.

      So glad that you love the immersion from the bass shakers. That makes me happy.

      -James

  • Gavin says:

    Hi James,

    Great little DIY project! Just from reading thru some of the comments and with guys battling with the “audio bleed” the reason is because there is either no low-pass filter, or the filter is set too high (if using a subwoofer amp with the cross-over built in). I am in the process of distributing these bass shakers in South Africa and came across this solution from Parts Express in USA. It basically fits onto an RCA connector from the audio source to the amp and filters out the higher frequencies. It will do the trick to get rid of the unwanted higher frequencies: http://www.parts-express.com/harrison-labs-fmod-inline-crossover-pair-100-hz-low-pass-rca–266-254

    It’s pretty pricey but it’ll work and its super simple to implement.

    Let me know if you want to chat more!

    Gavin

    • James says:

      Hey Gavin,

      Thats a great solution. I have a cross over on mine so I can filter out freq’s, but you have presented a great solution for thos who can’t. Thanks for contributing some great info into the conversation.

      Regards,
      James

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