F1 2016 Steering Wheel and Force Feedback Settings for the Thrustmaster TX, TMX, T300, and T150

F1 2016 Steering Wheel and Force Feedback Settings for the Thrustmaster TX, TMX, T300,  and T150

Getting the best settings for your racing wheel and pedal set for maximum performance in F1 2016 isn’t as difficult as it’s been with previous titles.

So far I have tested the game with the Thrustmaster TX, TMX and Logitech G920 on the Xbox One and the T300 and T150 on the PS4. For all of the steering wheels I found they performed fairly consistently across all the models and you could generally perform well with the default settings. There are however a few points worth discussing around tweeking the settings to your preferences/ racing style.

For the most part the menus for Force Feedback Settings and for Advanced Wheel Settings haven’t changed since the 2015 version of the game. With that being said though, there have been improvements in the feel of the wheel and the handling physics in F1 2016. While I have only tested these settings on the Xbox One and PS4, I would expect them to hold true for the PC as well.

Ok, lets get into the basic steering wheel settings menu’s and if you want to know a bit more about what some of the settings mean then read on…

Default Settings

By default all your force feedback (FFB) settings will be at 100 and all your advanced wheel settings will be set to 0. Having the sliders set to 0 means no changes to the input and your wheel and pedals will perform at a 1:1 ratio.




F1 2016 Force Feedback Settings

These are the exact force feedback settings I use for all of the Thrustmaster wheels. These should serve as a good baseline for you and then you can use my setting notes to figure out how to fine tune to your preferences.

To access the settings: Go to the Force Feedback Options menu.

Force Feedback Options:

  • Force Feedback: ON
  • Force Feedback Strength: 100
  • Environmental Feedback: 60
  • Wheel Weight: 60

What Do the F12016 FFB Settings Mean:

Force Feedback: I found the force feedback to be ok, but not over powering. I would prefer to have to reduce it, but in this game it wasn’t necessary. There are two places you could change your FFB strength: in the game menus or you could also check your wheel settings by plugging your wheel into a PC and adjusting the strength in the wheel calibrations. The FFB strength settings will determine how much of your car you feel like loosing grip in the back end.

Environmental Feedback: These settings define how much of the factors you feel outside of your car such as crashes, kerbs, bumps, etc…In most games I tend to keep these settings jacked up as I feel it adds a much more immersive racing experience. For F1 2016 I found some of the vibration to be a bit much so I have dialed it back a bit.

Wheel Weight: This setting is a form of linear dampening that creates a heavy feeling as you turn your wheel right or left. Wheel weight settings often over ride FFB settings which reduce the performance and response of a racing wheel in certain situations. So in general I opt to have higher force feedback settings and lower wheel weight as I find it helps me get a better feel for what the car is doing.




To make more adjustments to your wheel, you can go into to the customize controls menu and then select advanced wheel settings.

Advanced Wheel Settings Formula One 2016

Advanced Wheel Settings:

  • Steering Deadzone: 0
  • Steering Linearity: 0
  • Steering Saturation: 0
  • Throttle Deadzone: 0
  • Throttle Linearity: 0
  • Throttle Saturation: 0
  • Brake Deadzone: 0
  • Brake Linearity: 30 (see notes for load cell brakes)
  • Brake Saturation: 0

What do the F1 2016 Wheel Settings Mean:

Steering Deadzone: This setting determines hom much you can turn the wheel to the left or the right before the game registers any input. Most people think about it as “play” in the wheel. How far can you move the wheel before the tires start turning. Generally you want your wheel deadzone to be at 0 in most racing games.

Steering Linearity: Adding linearity in your steering would mean that when you first turn the wheel the input will be less sensitive and increase sensitivity the further you turn the rotation. Sensitivity in this context does not mean FFB strength or the wheel getting harder to turn. It is referring to how much input the game is registering. Another way to think about this is the tyres will turn slower when your wheel is near center and turn faster as your wheel gets further from centre. Setting this to 0 keeps you at a constant 1:1 ratio.

Tip 1: Increase steering linearity if you find the steering too responsive. Decrease it if you feel the steering is too lose. If you have a wheel like the 458 spider with a 270 max rotation increasing your steering linarity may make the wheel feel less choppy.

Steering Saturation: This effects the amount of input that it takes to make your car turn. If you set the saturation to 0 you need to cut your wheel all the way to the right to hit your steering lock. If you set your saturation to 100 it will make you barley have to turn the wheel to make your car do a full turn. This is essentially decreasing your wheel rotation. A setting of 100 is like having a 3:1 ration. Setting this to 0 keeps you at a constant 1:1 ratio.

Tip 2: Increase steering saturation if you feel the steering isn’t sensitive enough. Reduce it if you feel that the steering is overly sensitive. I do not recommend changing the saturation

Throttle Deadzone: This determines how far you gave to depress the accelerator pedal before the game registers your input. Increasing the amount of deadzone means that you have to push the pedal down further before the gas is actually applied.

Throttle Linearity: Adding linearity in your throttle would mean that the pedal will register less input in the beginning of the pedal compression and increase input the further the pedal is compressed. Leaving the setting at 0 keeps you in a 1:1 ratio.

Tip 3: In F1 2016 the throttle is very sensitive, if you have a heavy foot on the accelerator you could try increasing the linearity to reduce the sensitivity of the throttle in the beginning of the pedal travel.

Throttle Saturation: This effects the amount of input it takes for your car to accelerate. Increasing the number essentially shortens the distance you need to push down the throttle in order to obtain full throttle.

Tip 4: Increase the saturation if you feel like throttle isn’t sensitive enough. Decrease the saturation if you feel like the throttle is to sensitive.

Brake Deadzone: This determines how far you gave to depress the brake pedal before the game registers your input. Increasing the amount of deadzone means that you have to push the brake pedal down further before the braking is actually applied.

Brake Linearity: Adding linearity in your brake pedal would mean that the pedal will register less input in the beginning of the brake pedal compression and increase input the further the pedal is compressed. Leaving the setting at 0 keeps you in a 1:1 ratio.

Tip 5: If you use the standard stock pedals, the T3PA Wide or T3PA Pro pedals sets with your Thrustmaster wheels you may find the brakes lock up a bit, because it utilizes a potentiometer (the further distance you press the pedal the more the car brakes), adding some linearity may help you reduce the amount of brake lock up.

Tip 6: If you have T3PA Pro pedals with a load cell leave your braking linearity at 0.

Brake Saturation: This effects the amount of input it takes for your car to stop. Increasing the number essentially shortens the distance you need to push down the brake in order to obtain a full step.

Tip 7: Increase the saturation if you feel like brake isn’t sensitive enough. Decrease the saturation if you feel like the brake is to sensitive.




Other Settings and Suggestions

Here are just a few other notes regarding Thrustmaster setting.

Degrees of Wheel Rotation

The game is set for 360 degrees of wheel rotation to obtain wheel lock. Your Thrustmaster wheel should match the game without having to make any DOR adjustments. If you are having issues with your DOR check that you have your wheel set to 900 degrees on your wheel base (4 flashes of the white light on the left front of your wheelbase). PS4 and Xbox will be hard coded for this setting so you shouldn’t have to touch anything.

*Note: if you use a 458 Spider your wheel will lock at 270 degrees of rotation and it is not adjustable.

Brake Mods

Ricmotech Load Cell ModWhile the load cell is the best brake option for immerssion and realism, not everybody has it in their budget.

If you are using the T3PA Pro pedals or the T3PA Wide pedals, I suggest using the rubber conical brake mod set fairly tight (about 75%). I find this emulates the best progressive brake pressure.

F1 Rim

Thrustmaster Ferrari F1 Wheel Add-OnIf you have a TX or T300 you can change out steering wheel rim for the Thrustmaster F1 Rim. It’s not going to improve your lap times but it will certainly increase your immerssion. Another great rim option is the suede Momo 27c mod from ricmotech.

You can also checkout my best recommendations for a F1 2016 sim racing setup.

F1 2016 Racing Steering Wheel Settings Wrap Up

Overall the default settings on the Thrustmaster Wheels are pretty good. I think you could probably leave everything as is and put up some great lap times. I will continue to update this article if my settings should change overtime or if I get feedback from my readers that there are better settings than I have posted.

If you want to see all of the pieces in my Xbox racing setup, you can check it out here.

If you like the settings, you might also be interested in this article:

27_Tips

Check Out Formula One 2016 Accessories at Amazon

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What settings would you recommend for the F1 2016 game? Give me some feedback about what settings you are using in the comments as that may help racers in the community.

37 Comments

  • Nick says:

    thanks for these settings. I own a t300 and these are the best settings I have found so far.

    • James says:

      Hey Nick,

      No problem. Glad they are working out for you. Did you try any other settings previously? Also are you running a PS4 or a PC?

      Hope you are enjoying the game,
      James

  • Alvaro says:

    Me podrías decir configuración g27 para f1 2016 ps4 gracias gracias

    • James says:

      Hi Alvaro,

      I will be happy to look into this, just need a few days. I know there seems to be some confusion out there regarding the G27 wheel setup. Once I get some settings Ill post them here in the comments.

      -James

  • Chris says:

    I just got this game today and I really appreciate you taking the time to write this up.

    I’m currently working with the T3PA Wide pedals. Do you have any recommended settings for the Throttle Linearity and Brake Linearity? I feel like I lock up a lot and spin out when I hit the throttle. I may just need to work on it myself but I wasn’t sure if you had a good starting point.

    Thanks for all the hard work!

    • James says:

      Hey Chris,

      Thanks for the comment. F1 2016 as you have experienced is EXTREMELY sensitive on the throttle and if you have a heavy foot like I do it takes a lot of practice not not spin out on your turn exits. My best recommendation is first to practice and be very easy on the throttle until the car is under control and then put it to the floor. My second is to play with the throttle linearity in increments of 10. I suggest starting at 20 and working your way up from there.

      Brake locks are pretty common as well. Again I suggest practicing with my best tip being slow into the corners. Its better to be slow in and fast out, then vise versa. Improving your controlled braking skills is more effective than compensating with settings. If you do want to try to adjust brake settings start at 30 for brake linearity and then adjust in increments of 10. Go out on the tracks and practice and try to mark spots on the track, hit the brakes and see how long your brake distances are. The problem with brake lineartity being adjusted to high is that with the T3PA pedals with a conical brake mod attached its possible that you can set it so the car never fully breaks 100%. What happens is the linearity reduces the brake power in the beginning of the pedal throw and the rubber stopper makes it harder to apply pressure towards the end of the pedal throw.

      When I was testing settings with the conical brake mod in, I though 30 on the brake linearity was a good number to prevent lock up, but each of us probably drives a bit differently. Play around with settings and let me know what parameters you finally ended up feeling comfortable with.

      -James

  • Nee Deep says:

    Hi James,
    You’ve mentioned that the t300rs is hard coded for the Ps4 with F1 2016.
    Well mein doesn’t feel like it is at 360°,but more like 900°.
    Could you please give me some advice on how to change this,as it is making my driving very difficult.

    Thanks for your tutorial,well delivered.

    • James says:

      Hi

      Thanks for leaving a comment. Not sure why your T300 isn’t picking up the rotation, but you can try this…If you are facing the wheel on the left side of the wheelbase there is a light and a button under your PS3/PS4 switch. This is the mode button and you can use it to manually set your DOR on your wheel.

      To manually change the DOR simultaneously hold the Mode button and then press either the Left or Right button on the D-Pad. Left will decrease DOR, while Right will increase DOR.

      The red light next to the mode button will flash:

      1 Flash – 270 degrees
      2 Flashes – 360 degrees
      3 flashes – 540 degrees
      4 flashes – 900 degrees
      5 flashes – 1080 degrees.

      If you are having an issue with the DOR in the game because it automatically sets to 360, then each time you start F1 2016 I imagine you will probably need to select the mode you want. Hopefully this is a quick fix for your issue and gets back on the road!

      Keep me posted if this doesn’t fix your issue.

      -James

  • Kent Bergstrom says:

    I have a Thrustmaster TX with Xbox One, and I have found out that changing to sensitivity mode 2 on the wheel make the the wheel less twitchy around center, feels great to me.

    Sorry for my bad English.

    • James says:

      Hey Kent,

      Your english is perfect!! Thanks for the sensitivity tip, I will have to try that out and see how it feels. I appreciate you leaving a comment, hope you are enjoying the game.

      Regards,
      James

  • Cameron says:

    Hey, great blog and very helpful! Wondering if you can assist me with a massive vibration issue I have?
    I have the T500rs with the F1 wheel rim. I used to have my settings set to 100/60/100 as I’ve always liked to be able to feel everything about the car however with the weight at 100 I get this unbelievable vibration every time I hit top speed on straights!?! For F1 2015 I previously had feedback and weight set to max but this vibration is too much so I worked out to dial the weight down to around 60 (some times lower) to reduce the vibration but I hate it that low as I loose quite a lot of feel in the wheel.
    It also seems the “Vibration setting” and the “Feedback setting” are one and the same so I wonder what the friggin point is of having both?
    An even more interesting point to also make, I get none of this massive vibration when racing time trials, seems to only be career mode so far?!?!
    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    cheers

    • James says:

      Hey Cameron,

      Sorry to hear you’ve got some issues with the T500. I dont get alot of inquiries about the T500 so I havent heard this issue being reported yet, however it sounds more like an issue with the game causing issues specifically for the T500. While I dont have an immediate solution for you I can give some context…In Forza for example my Thrustmaster TX after and hour of driving starts pulling to the left, but it doesnt happen with the TMX, 458 Spider, or Logitech G920 wheels. The developer is has said they are aware of the issue, but they havent fixed it. I know that doesnt solve your issue, but it makes me wonder if its a particular issuse with F1 2016 and specifically the T500.

      I have played career mode with T300 on PS4 and the TX on XB1 and havent experienced the issue. What platform are you playing F1016 on PC or PS4? I can do some testing/research to see if we can find a solution.

      Regards,
      James

      • Cameron says:

        Hi James, thanks for the reply. The platform I am on is PS4. I’m beginning to think this is a bug with F1 2016 and the T500 (even though its supposed to be a supported wheel).. Seem weird that is it only happening with Career mode and not in Time Trials also and what’s with the Feedback and Vibration settings being linked?? I have tried playing with all the settings to no avail.
        I’d be super thankful if you found a solution as this really does but a dampener on the game for me if I cannot resolve this…
        Many thanks James and awesome blog!
        Cheers

        • James says:

          Hey Cameron,

          So this weekend I hooked the T500 up to the PS4 and tested out F1 2016 in career mode and I see what you mean…GEEZ!! First off I wasn’t able to figure out a way to remove the vibration through the settings and second I also wasn’t able to find a solution online. I think the issue is with Codemasters and specifically the game though and not with your wheel.

          Just to be sure what version of the firmware are you running…is it the latest? I didnt actually check mine (cuz I just thought of it now). You can go here to get the latest firmware: Thrustmaster Support. Another option is to try their facebook page. You could try messaging them or posting, but I am not sure how much traction that will get.

          I did post myself about the issue, but not sure if we will get a response. You can see my post here. I will try to keep my eyes out in the forums and see if a solution comes up, but I am sorry to report at the moment I dont have one. The Codemasters F1 Forum may be another good place to look.

          -James

  • Cameron says:

    Hi James,
    Glad to hear I’m not just imagining things!
    FYI, my firmware is “#43” and from looking at the Thrustmaster website that is the latest version, having said that I think it’s rather old (goes back to 2014 I think), seems Thrustmaster don’t see any value in keeping these things up to date even though this is one of the most expensive wheels on the market!?
    I’ve now tweaked my settings further, FB=90, ENV=60 & WGHT=60 (but still having to adjust weight depending on track). Oh and just to add some more drama to this whole subject, the latest F1 2016 update seems to have made it worse, now get vibration in TimeTrials *uggh* plus game randomly pauses, changes driver view and makes changes to brake/diff settings while racing without any prompting from “user” LOL…. Go Codies!

    • James says:

      Hey Cameron,

      Yeah your correct the firmware hasn’t been updated in a long time. While the wheel is compatible with PS4 it is technically not supported for PS4, meaning it doesn’t work natively like a T300 or T150. being that the T500 has been out a few years and TM is putting new wheels out it probably doesnt bode well for future updates unfortunately. That stinks to because the T500 is a great wheel.

      -James

      • Cameron says:

        Hi James,
        I believe you can still buy the T500rs but in any case, Thrustmaster need to value all customers, not just their “current” ones, this is a bloody expensive wheel and I’d hope it lasts a while yet but I doubt I’ll be buying another Thrustmaster if the support they provide is lacklustre….
        cheers

        • James says:

          You are correct, they are still selling the T500 and because of that they should continue to provide support, but I think the question is can they? Now I am not a software guy so I don’t know what they can fix with Firmware and what they can’t, but its probably no different than a new computer vs an old computer. The new computers can handle more while the old computers cant handle as much. The technology in the T500 is about 5-6 years old now…It makes me wonder if that is what is holding it back. 2 years since the last firmware update does seem to be a long time. I agree with you though if they are gonna continue to sell it then they better figure out a way to support it!!

          On another note Im actually shocked that the T500 is still going for the same price it was years ago. I honestly thought they would knock $100 off of it when the new wheels started coming out, but they didnt.

          -James

          • Cameron says:

            yeah it hasn’t dropped in price much if at all. I was lucky enough to buy it thru JBHiFi at a small discount, (something better than nothing) however like I said, if/when this one goes I’ll prob look at cheaper ones like the G27! Have a few friends that rave about this and it’s like half the price!
            by the way… any tips on driving without traction control?? I just cannot keep the car away from the wall without traction control! :/

          • James says:

            Hey Cameron,

            Not sure, if you have seen this article yet, but you can check out my tips for faster laps in F1 2016. The best advice I have to give for racing without traction control is to learn to ease down on the throttle with a slow gradual pedal depression and not push your cars limits until it is under control. Also If you try to hit the late apex in the corners you will be able to jump on the throttle sooner and get your front wheels straightened out which will help keep your car under control. Another trick which isnt always efficient is to feather your gas pedal as you are hitting the turn exit…you just gotta be careful not to depress the pedal to hard when you are doing it.

            -James

  • Tony M says:

    Good job James, I have just been browsing over your views and your prompt replies to all that engaged in some sort of advice. I feel this must be very time consuming and would just like to say that without people like yourself gaming wouldn’t be as great in these areas.
    Keep up the good work James 👍

    • James says:

      Hey Tony,

      Thanks for the kind words. I really appreciate you visiting my blog and leaving such a thoughtful comment! That made my day.

      -James

  • Cameron says:

    Hi James,
    Just thought I would let you know, I’d written to Codies and Thrustmaster and followed with another post up after no response at all, and to date still no response or even acknowledgement!? TBH wasn’t surprised!

    • James says:

      Hey,

      I did get a response from Thrustmaster on Facebook, but it was so lame. They told me to turn down the force feedback in the settings….lol!

      -James

      • Cameron says:

        not surprised, yet another corporation taking its customers for granted.. Makes ya wanna take em by the neck and choke em!

  • Cameron says:

    Hi James,
    Thought I would send you an update, I wrote TM a “very disappointed with your product support email and doubt I’ll buy another” and got this response,

    “Regarding your Ferrari F1 Wheel Integral T500.

    The latest driver that also includes the latest version for your T500 is found on our website and its from 2016:
    http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/T500RS/2016_TTRS_2.exe
    Here you have information on how to update to the latest firmware:
    http://ts.thrustmaster.com/download/pub/webupdate/t500rs/t500rs_firmware_update_procedure_v43.pdf
    Also check our support website in order to find the latest drivers:”

    I could have sworn v43 was a 2014 driver but they seem to have either updated it in the last week or so or just re-labled it 2016 but still v43, I did notice this version looks to have been created Sept 15. Now starting to question my own memory on what I previously downloaded/installed.

    • James says:

      Hey Cameron,

      You are not crazy I checked myself and sent you the link for what I also thought was the latest driver. Maybe they changed sites…they certainly didnt do a good job of letting people know there was an update.

      So I am curious did you download it and has it fixed the excessive vibration issue?

      -James

  • Cameron says:

    Hi James,

    Yep downloaded and no change, still have the vibration and numerous other issues like the game pausing, changing views etc. however I am not completely sure if this one I downloaded was actually different to the one I downloaded before, the name was exactly the same and checking the properties of the file didn’t tell me much either. I have resorted to tweaking the weight & forceback settings for each track. fortunately I can almost have it at 95% for Monaco coz the straights aren’t long enough for the vibration to kick in, but Canada and the like I still need to drop it to around 65-68 which is a massive disappointment losing all the feel in the wheel when its that low.
    Cheers for your blog mate, great job 🙂

  • Mark says:

    Hello James,

    I’m new to F1 racing, I have F1 2016. I was doing well in career mode until Monaco, Ouch tough track. My problem is keeping the car under control, it seems to weave all over the track, going straight on those tight roads are impossible.

    Thank you, Mark

    • Mark says:

      I forgot to mention I use a PC, thanks again

    • James says:

      Hey Mark,

      Yeah Monaco is one of the hardest tracks and its nearly impossible to overtake cars with such narrow streets. One of the things I always have to remind myself is too slow down. I make every effort to break on corner entry much earlier and I ease on the throttle on exit. For me the key to doing well on Monaco is putting in good qualifying laps and getting a good race position. That allows me to play defense a bit and set the pace for the cars behind me.

      My best advise is to practice on time trails and get a real feel for the track. Take a slow and then speed up. Also try using a setup specific to Monaco. I like tunes by TRL Limitless, try this one: http://virtualthrottle.com/f1-2016-monaco-setup/ and see if that helps you out at all.

      -James

  • Randy says:

    Please help !!! I got the tmx wheel but when I adjust rotation to 360 or 270 in the control panel the wheel does not lock when it reaches those degrees. I can keep turning the wheel past those degrees in the game it doesn’t lock or shouldn’t it? If I leave it at 900 then I’m having to turn the wheel to much in f1 2016. This happens on both versions the PC version and Xbox one version. If I’m going to fast into a corner and the wheel don’t lock I keep turning it which throws me off and is causing me to not produce good lap times. If the wheel would lock then I can know where I need to compensate please help thanks 🙂

    • James says:

      Hey Randy,

      Sorry for the delayed response I had been traveling for the Holidays. For F1 2016 I normally dont adjust the rotation at all, I let the game determine the degree of rotation and I dont adjust it all in the menus. If your TMX is not soft locking try setting the degrees of rotation directly on the wheel base using the mode button. Use this document it will guide you through using the mode button. That should soft lock your wheel.

      Let me know if you have any issues. Again sorry for the super late reply.

      -James

  • Victor says:

    Is there any way to map the extra buttons on the Ferrari F1-Add on wheel to things like brake bias in F1 2016 or do I have to do all that through the multifunction display?

    • James says:

      IF you are playing on Xbox One, unfortunately no not that I can remember. I think all you have is the default config. I can take a look again and see if there are better options. I’ll check this out over the next day or two and let you know.

      -James

      • Victor says:

        Thanks James! I’m playing on PC. I was curious about the Dif In, CHRG knobs. I’d like to be able to configure those in F1 2016 to their corresponding functions. But in F1 2016, I only see controlling things like brake balance with the multifunction display (scrolling menu) it uses.

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