Getting the best settings for your racing wheel and pedal set for maximum performance in F1 2016 isn’t as difficult as it’s been with previous titles.
So far I have tested the game with the Thrustmaster TX, TMX and Logitech G920 on the Xbox One and the T300 and T150 on the PS4. For all of the steering wheels I found they performed fairly consistently across all the models and you could generally perform well with the default settings. There are however a few points worth discussing around tweeking the settings to your preferences/ racing style.
For the most part the menus for Force Feedback Settings and for Advanced Wheel Settings haven’t changed since the 2015 version of the game. With that being said though, there have been improvements in the feel of the wheel and the handling physics in F1 2016. While I have only tested these settings on the Xbox One and PS4, I would expect them to hold true for the PC as well.
Ok, lets get into the basic steering wheel settings menu’s and if you want to know a bit more about what some of the settings mean then read on…
By default all your force feedback (FFB) settings will be at 100 and all your advanced wheel settings will be set to 0. Having the sliders set to 0 means no changes to the input and your wheel and pedals will perform at a 1:1 ratio.
F1 2016 Force Feedback Settings
These are the exact force feedback settings I use for all of the Thrustmaster wheels. These should serve as a good baseline for you and then you can use my setting notes to figure out how to fine tune to your preferences.
To access the settings: Go to the Force Feedback Options menu.
Force Feedback Options:
- Force Feedback: ON
- Force Feedback Strength: 100
- Environmental Feedback: 60
- Wheel Weight: 60
What Do the F12016 FFB Settings Mean:
Force Feedback: I found the force feedback to be ok, but not over powering. I would prefer to have to reduce it, but in this game it wasn’t necessary. There are two places you could change your FFB strength: in the game menus or you could also check your wheel settings by plugging your wheel into a PC and adjusting the strength in the wheel calibrations. The FFB strength settings will determine how much of your car you feel like loosing grip in the back end.
Environmental Feedback: These settings define how much of the factors you feel outside of your car such as crashes, kerbs, bumps, etc…In most games I tend to keep these settings jacked up as I feel it adds a much more immersive racing experience. For F1 2016 I found some of the vibration to be a bit much so I have dialed it back a bit.
Wheel Weight: This setting is a form of linear dampening that creates a heavy feeling as you turn your wheel right or left. Wheel weight settings often over ride FFB settings which reduce the performance and response of a racing wheel in certain situations. So in general I opt to have higher force feedback settings and lower wheel weight as I find it helps me get a better feel for what the car is doing.
To make more adjustments to your wheel, you can go into to the customize controls menu and then select advanced wheel settings.
Advanced Wheel Settings:
- Steering Deadzone: 0
- Steering Linearity: 0
- Steering Saturation: 0
- Throttle Deadzone: 0
- Throttle Linearity: 0
- Throttle Saturation: 0
- Brake Deadzone: 0
- Brake Linearity: 30 (see notes for load cell brakes)
- Brake Saturation: 0
What do the F1 2016 Wheel Settings Mean:
Steering Deadzone: This setting determines hom much you can turn the wheel to the left or the right before the game registers any input. Most people think about it as “play” in the wheel. How far can you move the wheel before the tires start turning. Generally you want your wheel deadzone to be at 0 in most racing games.
Steering Linearity: Adding linearity in your steering would mean that when you first turn the wheel the input will be less sensitive and increase sensitivity the further you turn the rotation. Sensitivity in this context does not mean FFB strength or the wheel getting harder to turn. It is referring to how much input the game is registering. Another way to think about this is the tyres will turn slower when your wheel is near center and turn faster as your wheel gets further from centre. Setting this to 0 keeps you at a constant 1:1 ratio.
Tip 1: Increase steering linearity if you find the steering too responsive. Decrease it if you feel the steering is too lose. If you have a wheel like the 458 spider with a 270 max rotation increasing your steering linarity may make the wheel feel less choppy.
Steering Saturation: This effects the amount of input that it takes to make your car turn. If you set the saturation to 0 you need to cut your wheel all the way to the right to hit your steering lock. If you set your saturation to 100 it will make you barley have to turn the wheel to make your car do a full turn. This is essentially decreasing your wheel rotation. A setting of 100 is like having a 3:1 ration. Setting this to 0 keeps you at a constant 1:1 ratio.
Tip 2: Increase steering saturation if you feel the steering isn’t sensitive enough. Reduce it if you feel that the steering is overly sensitive. I do not recommend changing the saturation
Throttle Deadzone: This determines how far you gave to depress the accelerator pedal before the game registers your input. Increasing the amount of deadzone means that you have to push the pedal down further before the gas is actually applied.
Throttle Linearity: Adding linearity in your throttle would mean that the pedal will register less input in the beginning of the pedal compression and increase input the further the pedal is compressed. Leaving the setting at 0 keeps you in a 1:1 ratio.
Tip 3: In F1 2016 the throttle is very sensitive, if you have a heavy foot on the accelerator you could try increasing the linearity to reduce the sensitivity of the throttle in the beginning of the pedal travel.
Throttle Saturation: This effects the amount of input it takes for your car to accelerate. Increasing the number essentially shortens the distance you need to push down the throttle in order to obtain full throttle.
Tip 4: Increase the saturation if you feel like throttle isn’t sensitive enough. Decrease the saturation if you feel like the throttle is to sensitive.
Brake Deadzone: This determines how far you gave to depress the brake pedal before the game registers your input. Increasing the amount of deadzone means that you have to push the brake pedal down further before the braking is actually applied.
Brake Linearity: Adding linearity in your brake pedal would mean that the pedal will register less input in the beginning of the brake pedal compression and increase input the further the pedal is compressed. Leaving the setting at 0 keeps you in a 1:1 ratio.
Tip 5: If you use the standard stock pedals, the T3PA Wide or T3PA Pro pedals sets with your Thrustmaster wheels you may find the brakes lock up a bit, because it utilizes a potentiometer (the further distance you press the pedal the more the car brakes), adding some linearity may help you reduce the amount of brake lock up.
Tip 6: If you have T3PA Pro pedals with a load cell leave your braking linearity at 0.
Brake Saturation: This effects the amount of input it takes for your car to stop. Increasing the number essentially shortens the distance you need to push down the brake in order to obtain a full step.
Tip 7: Increase the saturation if you feel like brake isn’t sensitive enough. Decrease the saturation if you feel like the brake is to sensitive.
Other Settings and Suggestions
Here are just a few other notes regarding Thrustmaster setting.
Degrees of Wheel Rotation
The game is set for 360 degrees of wheel rotation to obtain wheel lock. Your Thrustmaster wheel should match the game without having to make any DOR adjustments. If you are having issues with your DOR check that you have your wheel set to 900 degrees on your wheel base (4 flashes of the white light on the left front of your wheelbase). PS4 and Xbox will be hard coded for this setting so you shouldn’t have to touch anything.
*Note: if you use a 458 Spider your wheel will lock at 270 degrees of rotation and it is not adjustable.
While the load cell is the best brake option for immerssion and realism, not everybody has it in their budget.
If you have a TX or T300 you can change out steering wheel rim for the Thrustmaster F1 Rim. It’s not going to improve your lap times but it will certainly increase your immerssion. Another great rim option is the suede Momo 27c mod from ricmotech.
You can also checkout my best recommendations for a F1 2016 sim racing setup.
F1 2016 Racing Steering Wheel Settings Wrap Up
Overall the default settings on the Thrustmaster Wheels are pretty good. I think you could probably leave everything as is and put up some great lap times. I will continue to update this article if my settings should change overtime or if I get feedback from my readers that there are better settings than I have posted.
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What settings would you recommend for the F1 2016 game? Give me some feedback about what settings you are using in the comments as that may help racers in the community.