Forza 6 Steering Wheel Settings For Thrustmaster, Logitech, & Mad Catz Steering Wheels

Forza 6 Steering Wheel Settings For Thrustmaster, Logitech, & Mad Catz Steering Wheels

I’ve been getting lost of emails this week about “What are good in-game steering wheel settings for Forza Motorsport 6”?

So far what I have found is that the same exact settings I used in Forza 5 for the Thrustmaster TX, The Thrustmaster VG Spider, and the Mad Catz racing wheel feel really good in Forza 6.

These settings should also be viable for the Logitech G920 and serve as good baseline for other racing wheels like the Thrustmaster TMX as well.

Ok, lets get into the steering wheel settings and if you want to know a bit more about them, read on…

Forza 6 Settings

Thrustmaster VG Ferrari 599XX EVO Racing Wheel Add-On, Alcantara EditionThese are the exact settings I use and they should be good regardless whether you race with assists on or off. While I have tested them on the Spider and Mad Catz Wheel, I predominantly race with the Thrustmaster TX with the T3PA pro pedals with a load cell brake mod, the 599XX Evo Rim, and the TH8A shifter with a short shift mod kit.

Even if you don’t like the settings as is, hopefully they can serve as a good baseline to get you started.

Where to Access The Advanced Wheel Settings

To access the settings: go to the controller/wheel menu. Click your “X” button to access the advanced settings for the wheel. These settings will work with any wheel configuration you like. I like the default layout: “Layout 1”.

FM6 Layout 1

Steering Wheel Settings:

Advanced Wheel Settings
  • Steering Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
  • Steering Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
  • Acceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
  • Acceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
  • Deceleration Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
  • Deceleration Axis Deadzone Outside: 100 *See Pro Tip Below
  • Clutch Axis Deadzone Inside: 0
  • Clutch Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
  • Handbrake Axis Deadzone Inside: 3
  • Handbrake Axis Deadzone Outside: 100
  • Vibration: 100
  • Force Feedback Scale: 80
  • Wheel Rotation: Varies by car and preference

Notes for Adjustments Based on Your Setup

These are the exact setting that I use and the only setting I ever adjust is wheel rotation. For example, If I am driving an F1 car, I drop the rotation down to 360 degrees, for drifting I like any rotation over 500, and for everything else I typically I use rotations between 330 and 540. I also tend to like heavier Forcefeedback…if it’s too strong for you or you are using a custom made add-on rim dial it down to 60.

If you have the Thrustmaster F458 Spider, the vibration, rotation, and clutch settings you can ignore because the Spider doesn’t have those capabilities. Everything else should apply though.

I find that these settings combined with a sound race strategy and the Ross Bentley Driving Fast Book, help me get faster lap times in Forza 6 without even tuning.

What Do The Advanced Steering Wheel Settings Mean

When it comes to the Forza 6 setting you need to understand the terms inside, outside, and deadzone.

What does “Inside” and “Outside” mean?

Inside refers to the start of the input, while outside refers to the end of the input.

Pedals – Inside and Outside

For example with the pedals your “Inside” is the pedal when it is not pressed. Outside is the pedal when it is fully pressed.

Forza 6 Steering Wheel Seetings

Steering Wheel – Inside and Outside

For steering settings, “inside” refers to the wheel when it is centered and “outside” is the wheel fully turned.

If you were to set your inside steering axis to 50, you would have to turn the wheel 50% before your car even turned.

What is Deadzone?

Deadzone allows you to set an area of input where the game does not register your actions.

For example, if you set your accelerator axis deadzone inside to 50, you would have to push your accelerator pedal down 50% of the way before your car would even move. If you set your deadzone axis outside to 50, you would only have to push the accelerator down 50% to obtain maximum acceleration.

In the example below the deadzone outside is set to 50. This means when you push the accelerator 50% down, you are at full throttle. The pedal can still be physically pushed all the way down, but after the 50% of it’s total throw it is already fully engaged.

Deadzon settings For racing wheels

Why Would You Want Deadzone?

Setting some deadzone in certain inputs allows you to shorten the field of throw.

For example, I like to quick tap my clutch. I don’t want to have to push it all the way to the floor for it to register a 100% engagement. That is why I set my outside deadzone to 25. Essentially when I push the clutch down I don’t need to get it all the way to the floor to make a shift! This allows me to shift faster by doing a quick tap of the clutch.

Pro Tip: I use a load cell mod kit. If you use a stock brake pedal or conical brake mod try setting your brake decleration deadzone to 90

Some people like a little deadzone (5-10) on the inside of their steering, so that they can wiggle the wheel and have some play. I prefer 0 and keeping the wheel very sensitive to my turning inputs. Every degree I cut the wheel makes the car turn in the game.

Other Settings Outside the Game

If your wheel allows you to adjust the rotation on the wheel itself leave it set to 900 degrees rotation and only adjust the wheel rotation in the game settings. I personally think it’s easier to manage in game.

Brake Mods

RicmoTech load Cell Brake ReviewIf you are using the T3PA Pro pedals or the T3PA Wide pedals, I suggest using the rubber conical brake mod set fairly tight (about 75%). I find this emulates the best progressive brake pressure, but again a load cell on the T3PA Pro’s is more ideal for a better feel.

If you are not familiar with the load cell mod kit (pictured on the right) it can help shave seconds of your lap times by severally shortening your braking distances and reducing the amount of times you lock up the brakes. Its only for the T3PA Pro pedals though.

Shifter Mods

Ricmotech Short Shift kitIf you have the Th8A shifter, I use only the H pattern plate. I have it set up attached to my Playseat Evolution on a 15 degree vertical angle facing the TV and then a 10 degree horizontal angle towards my seat. I find this creates a comfortable arm angle for shifting efficiently. To reduce the n your TH8A you can add a short shift mod kit, which will reduce your time between shifts and make your shifter gear more like a high performance car with a short throw.

Forza 6 Steering Wheel Settings Wrap Up

Overall I think the same settings we used in Forza 5 work perfectly in Forza 6. I have put up some of my best lap time with these settings so if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. If you want to see all of the pieces in my Xbox racing setup, you can check it out here.

Check Out Racing Accessories at Amazon

What are your thoughts on these settings and what settings are you using and why? Let me know in the comments below.


  • Millwrice says:

    What’s a good clutch setting for using the auto clutch option on the tx? I don’t have the t3pa’s yet and it seems like there’s a bit of an offset. Thanks in advance

    • James says:

      Technically you won’t need a clutch setting if you do not have the T3PA’s, you should set the game to manual shifting and just use the paddle shifters. If you look in your assits menu you will see 3 options: automatic, manual, and manual with clutch. If you don’t have the T3PA’s hooked up, then changing the in game clutch settings will have no effect.

      What cars are you driving?

      The reason I ask is because you will notice in the low end cars (like the Golf R or the GT86 that you get in the beginning) that the shifting is offset and I think it is supposed to be. I was noticing this same thing yesterday…when I shift I keep ruining the transmission. I noticed that that the gear change happens like a full second after I shift and I need to keep the clutch on the floor much longer to avoid damage. The reason is that this is not a performance car with a racing clutch.

      You will notice if you switch over to a high end performance car like the La Ferrari or a Koenigsegg, the shift is immediate. When you click your paddle shifter or shift your TH8A the car cycles through the gears as fast as you shift. It is much easier to get the timing down with the clutch.

      While I haven’t had the game long enough to start playing with tuning yet, I am assuming if I upgrade my clutch in the low end cars, the gears will lock in and shift quicker.

      Hopefully that helps. Is the offset you are describing similar to what I have above? If not, let me know…I am doing some heavy racing today and I am happy to test different scenarios with you.


  • jamie says:

    how do you change the wheel rotation on forza 6…..I have the thrustmaster 458 spider

    • James says:

      Hey Jamie,

      Unfortunately on the Spider, the wheel itself only allows for 240 degree rotation. No matter what settings you change in the game the spider isnt built to rotate past that. I would imagine that is due to using the linear bungee cord system that used to provide resistance.

      All of the other settings are in the Options menu under the tab called controller/wheel. If you have your wheel hooked up and press “X” from inside the settings you can adjust all of the other advanced settings I have listed above expect rotation and vibration.


      • jamie says:

        Thanks James I thought that’s what it was but wasn’t sure..Do you think the setting above will work for my wheel? Thanks for your help..

        • James says:

          No problem, happy to help.

          I think the settings should work fine for your wheel. Mostly you wanna kick all of your dead zone out of your steering axis, everything else you can go by feel and use my settings as a baseline.

          If those settings don’t work well for you, let me know here on what settings you advise. This way if someone else with the Thrustmaster Spider comes and has the same question, they can take a look at your advise and see if that works for them.


  • Dave says:


    Thanks for the info. For some reason in the game, my wheel rotation angle is locked at 180 and cannot be adjusted. I am trying this for the first time so I have the “official Xbox one wheel”. Any insight?

    • James says:

      Hey Dave,

      Thanks for the comment. Specifically what wheel do you have? There are now a few different officially licensed wheels for the Xbox One, knowing which one you have will help me know the degrees of rotation that the wheel has.


  • John says:

    I think I’m having an issue with my Spider wheel. I can turn about 3/4 of the full rotation and anything past that, the in game wheel jerks to full rotation instantly. I’m on the 4th configuration in Forza 6, but when I play Horizon 2 I played on the default config. and it was really good, so much so I had forgot it even had sensitivity settings and never even fiddled with the advanced settings, until F6. Any advice? Thanks in advance.

    • James says:

      Hey John,

      Thanks for leaving a comment. With Forza 6 there seems to be a few wheel issues that have developed since their updates. There are some issues being reported with all of the wheels: thrustmaster, Logitech, Mad Catz, etc… where all of the sudden the wheel starts pulling in one direction after a certain degree of rotation. It can also start the pull after braking and/or shifting. This seems to be an issue with Forza 6 more than the wheel itself, which is further proved by the fact that you havnt seen any issues in Horizon 2.

      I have noticed a pulling issue recently on my TX, but I haven’t figured out what is the trigger for causing the issue. For example, last night I was racing for an hour with no issues and then I got in a small fender bender and my TX wheel started pulling to the left when braking, turning hard, hitting rumble strips on the left and the right, and getting tapped by other cars. All of theses actions caused it to pull to the left.

      This morning I hooked up the Spider wheel and played for a bit to test your issue. I dodnt have any immediate problems, but after 1.5 hours and hitting a barrier all of the sudden my Spider wheel reacted the same as my TX, pulling hard to the left under any type of stress.

      To fix:

      I quit the game, by going to my Xbox home screen, selecting the menu button, and then choosing quit. I reopened the game and the wheel no longer pulled to the left. I feel very confident that the issue is not with your Spider wheel, but with FM6. My TX wheel and spider wheel have no issues is Project Cars, FM5, Horizon 2, and F1 2015. Hopefully turn 10 will put out a patch.

      Sorry I don’t have a better answer at the moment, but I will update this comment if a solution presents itself.


      • John says:

        Thats good news then! I’ve never had it act normal with F6, but I just started playing a few days ago and thought the wheel was a lemon or something. I’ll try your tip though, thanks again.

        • James says:

          No problem John. The fact that it only happens with FM 6 is pretty telling. Some people have suggested on the forza motorsport forum turning the vibration off as a solution, but for me that is not a viable one. Since the Spider doesn’t have vibration, you can try it and see what results you get. To turn off your vibration you need o go to options/Controller and Wheel settings/ Advanced and then turn vibration to 0. I dont have a lot of confidence in that solution, but it may be worth a try.


  • John says:

    I already did that while editing the advanced settings and it didnt change anything I’ve noticed.

    • James says:

      Ok…I wasn’t very hopeful of that solution. I will continue to see if I can find a better alternative, but I think our best bet is hoping Turn 10 releases a patch.

  • Jon Levasseur says:

    Hi James,
    My name is Jon and I started playing F6 a few weeks ago. Game is great but my new Thrustmaster 458 Spider racing wheel jerks to the left suddenly for no reason making it hard to catch the car. It can not do it for 15-20 minutes and then it just starts, quite surprising! Managed to make it up to the 800 class but at these speeds it’s getting impossible to catch (or barely). Tried adding steering deadzone to no avail. Problem with my racing wheel? Could it have anything to do with the steering simulation in assists which I use? Or am I just a newbie! 😀 Many thanx!!

    • James says:

      Hey Jon,

      Thanks for leaving a comment. What you are experiencing is a new issue with FM6 that started a few weeks ago when turn 10 released their update patch. This pulling to the left issue is an issue on all of the Force Feedback steering wheels. I do not know of a solution as of yet, but there are alot of complaints about it to Turn 10 on the Forza Motorsport forum.

      Hopefully Turn 10 will release a fix soon. Not sure if you have any other racing games, but if you do try the Spider out with them and I am positive you want have any issues. I hope Turn 10 fixes it soon, because it’s pretty annoying when it derails you in the middle of a race.


  • Jon says:

    Thanx so much James! Was beginning to think I was loosing my marbles there! Hoping on a fix soon, great game and I will try my wheel on F12015. Cheers!

  • Gary Huffines says:

    Hi James.
    I have the Logitech G920
    I have noticed that i get smoke from my front tires in a turn on forza 6.
    I have it set at 540 degrees and have tried higher and lower.
    If i dont turn the wheel as much it dont chatter the tires or smoke.
    Would it help if i lower the steering outside from 100 to 75?

    • James says:

      Hey Gary,

      Changing the deadzone, may have an effect as it would technically shorten your rotation of the wheel. However, I am curious is it happening with every car that you use? I am a firm believer in leaving my outside deadzone at 100. I adjust my wheel rotation to the cars and that is all I touch. How are you hitting the turn? Could your approach to the turn be a turning in too early?

      Have you checked out 17 Tips for Faster Lap Times In Forza – Lots of good turning advice for hitting the apex correctly.

      Keep me posted. I haven’t seen any issues like that with the G920. What cars and what tracks are you seeing the issue on? I will try it out myself tonight!


  • Johnny says:

    I have a TX Racing Servo Base + 28 GT Wheel + TH8A Shifter and T3PA-Pro. My setting is a little different. Since I use the T3PA-Pro with the conical rubber mod the deceleration is based on how you setup the conical rubber. Since I own in real life couple of the cars I made it to feel as close to the real car.

    As for Vibration I also have it set to 100 but FFB Scale is around 86-89 to make it feel like the cars I have in real life to the same as in the game’s version of the car

    • James says:

      Hey Johnny,

      Thanks for the comment. The more realistic you can make your brake pedal feel the better. What settings are you using?


  • Berj says:

    I got the Madcatz pro wheel & enjoy playing forza6, i find you guide useful but wanted to know if we can adjust the Deadzone for the Brakes? i want to adjust the outside deadzone for the brakes so i don’t have to go all the way for 100% brakes, is there a way we can do it for the brakes as well?


    • James says:


      so for brakes you want to adjust your deadzone for the deceleration. That would be your brake pedal. You probably want to lower the deadzone on the outside. Try lowing to 50% and then play with the settings from there.


      • Berj says:

        Hi James,
        It worked & now its so much fun 🙂 Thanks a ton, i commented on the f1 2015 review for some advanced wheel settings for the Madcatz, would be awesome if you could suggest some settings for the wheel in f1 2015 & also is it possible to change outside brake dead zone in f1 2015??


        • James says:

          Hey Berj,

          Thanks for leaving a comment. I am glad you found the Forza 6 settings helpful. F1 2015 doesn’t have the same kind of deadzone settings, but I haven’t played in a while so let me take another look.


  • Jon says:

    Ever since I started racing in games, everyone’s been telling me how Forza Motorsport is THE pinnacle when it comes to motorsports gaming. I tried F2 a long time ago but not enough to have an opinion about it. So, last September, I finally dove in and got the Xbox One Forza 6 console and racing wheel. Four months later, I just got rid of it.
    It’s obvious that Turn 10 and Xbox put all emphasis on backround sceneries and selling car packs online ignoring THE single most important thing in any racing game: CAR CONTROL. The car must respond to what the gamer asks of it, not start randomly twitch to the left for NO reason out of the blue thus ruining races and the whole Forza experience. After the dozens of racing games I played (from GT to F1), I must express how extremely unimpressed I am with Forza Motorsports 6 and how nothing was done about it.
    I also seriously question Microsofts’ integrity in all this by not forcing Turn 10 to produce a fix after all this time. After all, they have a name to uphold… a name that will never mean the same to me ever again.

    • James says:


      I totally love your passion for having high expectations for the Forza series and I am sorry to hear Turn 10 let you down. I have to agree with your assessment in many ways, but my issue is that I am addicted to racing and I just cant put it down. Sure I see the flaws and their was the annoying bug a few months back that caused the racing wheel to pull to the left, but..for some reason i still love the game.

      I have seen some previews of GT 7 for PS4 and it looks like its gonna be amazing. Maybe if you are done with Microsoft and Turn 10, that could be another avenue to explore to fill your racing fix. Here are some good Grand Turismo 7 teasers, if you are interested.


  • Aaron says:

    Hello James,

    I really do enjoy Forza 6 over GT5 but a few things are a little nagging. The main concern is with a
    The racing wheel. I’m Using the TM F458 Spyder wheel, it seems as if the steering is not very linear and is artificially to “fast”.

    I am using your recommended settings but the wheel seems to exaggerate wheel rotation quite a bit. You literally have to move the wheel very slightly to get what seems like big, quick movement. If not, you seem to be always catching the rear end. Do you know if this is normal in F6 or is there some other setting to adjust?



    • James says:

      Hey Aaron,

      Sorry for my slow response.

      The Spider steering wheel does not have true force feedback and works off a bungee cord system so that might be the artificially “fast” you are describing. With a low rotation degree of 240, the wheel tends to operate more like an F1 steering wheel where all your movements are a 1:1 turning ratio, maybe even less because an F1 car has 270 degrees of rotation. Overall I would say this is pretty normal for the Spider wheel from game to game (meaning FM6 will also feel liek Project Cars).

      My best suggestion would be to try adjusting the sensitivity settings on the wheel. I actually have mine set to VERY LOW. By default the setting is set to LOW, but try the VERY LOW setting and see if that helps your experience.

      Here is how to change your sensitivity settings:

      you can also access this on the Thrustmaster support page as a PDF here

      Please feel free to respond back and let me know if that helps your issue, if not I can hook up my Spider wheel and try to replicate your issue.


  • Brando says:

    Hey James I have been playing Forza 6 on Xbox One for 2 months with a controller and loved it so much that I sprung for the Thrustmaster TX Servo Base with the Ferrari 599 Alacantra Wheel and the T3PA Pro Pedals. Right off the bat I had to send the base back and get a new one because of power issues and now that I received the new one the power cord is so loose that I had to rig it with tape to stay on. But now that I finally got everything working all I want to do is go back to using the controller. I have used your settings but something isn’t right. Sometimes there is play in the steering and I experience that jerk issue you were talking about earlier. I was wondering if Turn 10 has fixed that issue and there’s something wrong with my base AGAIN or if it’s the game? And thanks for your article it was a big help understanding the advanced controls.

    • James says:

      Hey Brando,

      Sorry for taking a few days to get back to you. Sorry to hear you had a negative experience with the Thrustmaster servo base, but I am glad to hear it is working well now. The “jerk” issue is exclusive to Forza 6 and for me usually happens after about 45 min to an hour of playing. I don’t experience that issue in any other racing game with my wheel. I don’t think the problem is your wheel base at all, I think the issue is Forza. There are also alot of other FM6 players who have complained to Turn 10 about it on

      For to much play in the steering wheel perhaps you require different settings than I need. I still think you want your deadzones set to 0 and 100. Try adjusting your rotation, which should give the least amount of play, but try that setting. Also in your FM6 assists menu try adjusting your steering assist. I use SIMULATION. Some people like NORMAL.

      How long have you had your wheel setup? It certainly does take some practice to get the feel for it.

      Keep me posted on your issue…try my suggestions and if that doesnt work let me know and I can do some testing with the TX on my end.


  • Alex says:

    I have Logitech G920 on xbox one. The wheel works (pedals and gear shift too) but there are no controller/wheel settings tab in Forza 6.
    Strange, because I had it in Forza 6 Demo just day before I installed Full version from disk. I can’t change layouts and set up dead zone/ rotation degree. Any clues?

    • James says:

      Hey Alex,

      Thats my first time hearing of this issue. I hooked up my G920 this morning and I had no trouble accessing the Options Menu>Controller/Wheel Setting and changing settings. Have you tried uninstalling the game and then reinstalling on your Xbox?

      So when you go to the Options tab in Forza 6, the controller/wheel settings tab is missing? or is it there and doesnt work when you select it?


  • OTF says:


    I know this is an old article but I was hoping to ask your advice. I recently got a Logitech G920 fo X1 I play Forza 6 and FH2.

    The well feels extremely stiff when driving like it has no power steering. I tried your settings above but it still feels far too stiff for me causing me to oversteer in corners making the game unplayable.

    When the wheel is unplugged it feels normal when I turn in it and when its plugged in it calibrates and the wheel spins freely.

    But when I play in game turning the wheel has a ton of resistance.

    I never calibrated the wheel on a pc just plugged it into my Xbox One and changed the settings in FM6 to match the ones you posted here.

    I played with the same wheel at the Forza event during E3 and it didnt feel like this the wheel felt rerally accurate and precise like diving a real car.

    Any suggestions on how to loosen the wheel? It almost feels like the belt is stuck when I play but I know its not because when its unplugged I can turn it with no resistance.

    • James says:


      Thanks for leaving a comment. My two best suggestions are to lower your force feedback settings and raise the wheel rotation in the game. That should loosen up the wheel. For a test try dropping your force feedback (FFB) down to 50 and set your degrees of rotation (DOR) to a setting over 500 and see how that feels.

      I would do all of this testing on Forza 6 because the cars will have more accurate handling physics. You should also test with a car that you are familiar with. for the setting you can adjust them in your options menu advanced wheel settings.

      For the G920, it should be plug in and play…the wheel will calibrate itself when you turn on your console. The 920 also doesnt have a belt inside it has helical gearing (which is like a transmission). I suppose it’s possible there is something wrong with the gearing, but I would say that is probably not the case as I haven’t heard any body yet with a similar complaint. If you do think something is wrong there is a 2 year warranty on the wheel and Logitech has good customer service.

      Try lowering the FFB and the DOR and let me know if the wheel performs any differently. Perhaps you could then tweek your settings from there.

      Keep me posted,

  • WNCmotard says:

    I’ve been playing the Forza series since the first iteration, and have owned every version but 5. I really love the series, but having just recently picked up a FFB wheel setup, I’m really disappointed that Turn 10 doesn’t take wheel users more seriously, and did such an abysmal job in FM6. Luckily there are other developers that realize this is a big part of racing games, and they get it right. Run some laps in FM6 with a FFB wheel setup, then go do the same in Pcars, there is no comparison.

    • James says:

      Agreed. The wheel feels so much better in Project Cars, although they took their wheel setup to the extreme. While I appreciate what they did where you have to get your force feedback settings tuned for each car, its way to time consuming. they also failed to define what all the settings mean, which meant alot of trial and error, when all you really want to do is spend time racing.

      I agree with the sentiment though and I appreciate PCars for the fact that they made that game for people like us with wheels. I am excited to see what we get from Assetto Corsa.


      • WNCmotard says:

        That’s a good point James, the FFB tune varies for each car and the feel you’re looking for in Pcars. And it is most definitely time consuming, even using the Jack Spade tunes for example takes a lot of time input for every car. Agreed on Assetto Corsa, I’ve read that it has some of the best wheel “feel” of any game on PC. Let’s hope they stayed true to form for us console players.

        • James says:

          I am really excited about Assetto Corsa on the Xbox. So far most racing games that have come out have been extremely glitchy in the first few months and then the developers issue updates. The list is long Forza 5, Need for Speed Rivals, Project Cars, The Crew, and F1 2015 all had major issues at release. From what I understand alot of what the issues are is that the Xbox can’t really maintain 60 fps.

          I know Assetto Corsa on the computer is about 100 fps and Im sure they really had to sacrifice alot for the consoles, but I am hoping it bearable. I dont really have a lot of faith in ported games so I am cautiously optimistic.


  • Andy says:

    Hi James

    I hope you can help me.

    I recently bought an Xbox 1 with Forza 6 with a Thrustmaster TMX wheel.

    Although the wheel works ok I can’t find how to make adjustments to it, particularly it’s ease of turning. It seems to be set so that it’s quite difficult to turn making it uncomfortable if playing for over 30 mins.

    I’m sure it can be adjusted but my Xbox says that there is no device connected even though it still works.

    I’m new to the Xbox 1 so perhaps it’s something I’m missing or perhaps it’s me who’s got something missing !!!

    I hope you can help.



    • James says:

      Hi Andy,

      Forza 6 may not recognize the TMX, because the game came out long before the TMX wheel did. I also don’t think there has been a patch to the game to recognize the wheel.

      What do you have currently for your force feedback and vibration settings? If your not sure, in the game go to the options tab and select the icon for controller/wheel settings. Next you will want to press “X”. On the advanced settings page, look at the bottom 3 options: Vibration Scale, Force Feedback Scale, and Wheel Rotation. Try reducing your vibration and your force feedback down. Also check to see if the wheel rotation angle is set to low. For example if your rotation is set to 270 and your force feedback is to 100 turning the wheel would be very hard.

      Here is another thing you can try which I am not 100% sure works on the TMX, because I havent had the need to try it. You might be able to lower the sensitivity directly on the wheel base by holding in the mode button on the left side of your wheel base and then clicking the right paddle shifter. The red light will flash and be an indicator as to what sensitivity level you are at. The right paddle shifter lowers sensitivity and the left one increases it.

      On most Thrustmaster wheels this will work, I just havent tried it on the TMX:

      Sensitivity level 1 (default)= NORMAL Flashes once
      Sensitivity level 2 = LOW Flashes twice
      Sensitivity level 3 = VERY LOW Flashes 3 times
      Sensitivity level 4 = MINIMUM Flashes 4 times

      Hopefully one of those suggestions works changing the in game settings or changing the sensitivity…keep me posted


  • David says:

    My son has just set up his Logitech G920 and is finding it hard to keep the car in a straight line. I remember having an old logitech that you could adjust the sensitivty by just pressing a button on the wheel and that worked there something on this wheel that i acn adjust ? ..cheers

    • James says:

      Hi David,

      You are correct, you can adjust the sensitivity of the 920, but to do so you will need to hook the wheel up to a PC. Use this article for instructions: Adjust sensitivity on the G29 and G920 racing wheels with Logitech Gaming Software

      Also if you haven’t done this yet you could also lower the force feedback in the options menu inside the game. Go To OPTIONS, select Controller/Wheel tab, Press “X” for Advanced wheel settings, and then Force Feedback is towards the bottom of the settings.

      Keep me posted if you are still having issues,

  • Chris says:


    I know this is a long running thread, but just came across it last night. I am curious if anything ever came of this issue with a wheel going nuts after playing for awhile? I am running the TM TX, T3PA & TH8A and have had F6 Edition Xbone since day 1 release.

    I agree, this has to be a Forza6 issue. H2, H3, Dirt Rally, PCars and AC do not have this problem.

    You mentioned restarting the game itself. I have been switching off the wheel and that clears the issue. Seems like something happens and all of a sudden the wheel glitches; pulling to the left and getting crazy heavy.

    The issue obviously still exist, as it just happened again last night. Very annoying. I am grinding through all the series on Pro, Full Damage and all assists off after not playing F6 for a bit. And here we are a year later and still having this issue.

    I am mostly curious if Turn10 has actually said anything as I haven’t been able to find any comments other than reports of the issue. Funny enough, I picked up PCars after AC got delayed the second time, then AC came out and was a bit of a disappointment (drives fine just to much repetition) which brought me back around to Forza with H3. LOL

    I am also curious if this issue is happening in Apex, since that is a port to PC instead of the other way around. Wheel support being delayed on the initial beta release, which I thought was strange. I am seriously considering next year going to PC racing. But that is a leap I am just not ready to make yet.

    Thanks for your time and a great article, even if I did find it a year later. LOL


    • James says:

      Hey Chris,

      Thanks for leaving a comment. Unfortunately there is no resolution for this issue. Turn 10 is not very responsive to these kind of things. Thats actually one of the biggest differences between Horizon 3 and Forza Motorsport. When issues like this come up in Horizon 3 Playground games listens to the community and does a patch to fix it…Turn 10 ignores most of this kind of feedback. I love FM6 and I race it often with my TX, but the issue is just something I have come to except.

      I am not aware of the issue continuing in Apex, but as you said the wheel support is delayed so I truly have no way of knowing. So far FH3 is fine with wheel support on the PC, but there are other issues for racing peripherals such as the Thrustmaster TH8A shifter and Thrustmaster T3PA pedals don’t work with the game on PC. So you could use your wheel, but not other stuff from the thrustmaster eco-system.


  • Melissa says:

    Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 spider steering wheel turns the opposite direction than the wheel turns for Xbox one Forza 6. Turn wheel right and car turns left. We tried unplugging, etc but can’t get it to work correctly. The controllers work correctly but not the wheel. Any suggestions?

    • James says:

      Hi Melissa,

      Ive never had this issue before, but lets start with the basics:
      1. Power off the console.
      2. Unplug the power cable located at the back of the console (the console’s power supply LED turns ORANGE).
      3. Leave the racing wheel connected to the console.
      4. Reconnect the power cable located at the back of the console (the console’s power supply LED turns WHITE).
      5. Power on the console again using the XBOX button located on the console (do not use the XBOX button on the controller).
      6. Start the game using the racing wheel; be careful not to turn the controller on!

      • To avoid any calibration problems:
      – Never turn the wheel or press on the pedals when connecting the racing wheel or starting a game.
      – Always connect the pedal set to the racing wheel before connecting the racing wheel’s USB connector to the console.

      – In FORZA MOTORSPORT 6, you can adjust your racing wheel’s settings in the FORZA PROFILE/CONTROLLER WHEEL

      I don’t believe there are any settings in the forza Controller wheel menu that would invert the steering, but take a look. Make sure you are using “Layout 1” in the controller options menu.

      This idea probably wont work, but might be worth trying:
      Your racing wheel offers four sensitivity levels:
      – 1 = NORMAL (default) – 2 = LOW –
      – 3 = VERY LOW – 4 = MINIMUM

      To adjust the racing wheel’s sensitivity setting, press the four following buttons simultaneously, then release them:
      Lever DOWN (LB) + Lever UP (RB) + Button Y + Button B
      (the racing wheel’s white LED flashes, according to the selected sensitivity setting)
      Racing wheel sensitivity setting (LB + RB + Y + B)

      Flashing white LED blinks according to the sensitivity setting:
      Sensitivity setting 1 = NORMAL Once
      Sensitivity setting 2 = LOW Twice
      Sensitivity setting 3 = VERY LOW 3 times
      Sensitivity setting 4 = MINIMUM 4 times
      Sensitivity setting 1 = NORMAL Once

      For Forza 6 try a setting of 3 or 4. I don’t think this will fix the inverse issue, but its worth testing.

      Keep me posted if you continue to have an issue.


  • George says:

    Hi James,

    Hope you had a great Holiday and Happy New Year. Yes, a long running thread but I thought I’d run this question by you anyway. After a very long time, my daughter pushed me to break out the MAd Catz Pro Force driving wheel for my new Xbox One S.


    No power…..

    IF memory serves, I remember having a flaky power issue on my Xbox One console over a year ago. I have tried realigning the wheel with the ‘red’ markings but nothing.

    Any ideas/help would be greatly appreciated since this device no longer shows up on the Mad Catz website for support.


    • James says:

      Hey George,

      Happy holidays and new year to you as well.

      The Mad Catz Wheel should work on the Xbox One S. I haven’t used my Mad Catz wheel in a long time, but I did test it on the XB1 S when it was first released and it powered up and raced fine. Have you tried Mad Catz tech support.

      So you think your issue is with the wheel or with the XB1 S?

      I think I may need some more details to understand the issue.


      • George says:

        Hi James and Happy New Year…..

        So I tried the MC on my Xbox One just in case some patch blocked the ‘S’ from working and it worked fine BUT in the process of hooking up to the Xbox One, I stretched the power line a bit and it separated from the power block it was attached to. What I’m trying to say is that I didn’t realize there was another place where I could have a power ‘leak’. Well, when I plugged that back in, the MC worked fine on the Xbox One so I took it apart and tried it on the Xbox One S and sure enough, it worked.

        It was that other power connection I didn’t realize that was there that did it.

        Sorry for the long explanation but now to fine tune the steering cause I can’t steer these cars for anything now!

        (Any hints would be appreciated)


        • James says:

          Hey George,

          Happy new year to you as well.

          So happy to hear you got the Mad Catz wheel working. My best advice for driving is to start with this article on Forza 6. Ultimately though it takes a lot of patience and practice.


          • George says:

            Thanks James….yes, patience is the key word here. I need to change adjust a ‘bit’ at a time.

            Thanks again


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